What is Facial Microneedling?

You may have noticed some new offerings popping up here at Emerging Energy this summer. We’ve expanded our space, our team and our skills! We’ve now got regular group treatments on the schedule, sound healing brought to you by Mary Claire, as well as some new cosmetic offerings- microneedling and a revamp of our facial rejuvenation acupuncture treatment. While we’ve been offering facial rejuvenation for a while now, we’ve been refining our technique and we think you’re going to love it! Microneedling, on the other hand, is a brand new thing for our patients here at EE and I’m going to tell you all about it.

So what IS microneedling exactly? 

Also known as “collagen induction therapy”, microneedling is a minimally invasive procedure in which we use an electronic device similar to a tattoo machine to prick the skin repeatedly with small, sterile needles. This stimulates the skin’s production of collagen and elastin, which can help smooth skin and diminish or eliminate the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, scars, acne and hyperpigmentation. Typically microneedling is done on the face, neck and chest, but can be performed almost anywhere on the body (the hands are actually becoming a popular area for microneedling, as it can help lighten sun spots and decrease the appearance of lines). Essentially, we’re creating a tiny bit of trauma to the skin’s surface, which triggers your body’s natural healing response and results in healthier-looking skin. 

How do I prepare for microneedling?

Most of the prep for your microneedling session will be done by your practitioner in the office, however, there are a few things you can do leading up to your appointment that may help minimize the irritation you experience and maximize results. 

First, stop use of any of your harsher or sensitizing products for 3-4 days prior to your session (a full week if you have more sensitive skin). This includes retinols, chemical exfoliants (such as AHA & BHA, lactic acid), or any strong concentrate (such as vitamin C) should be avoided for a few days prior to and after microneedling. 

Next, make sure you have a good moisturizer on hand for aftercare. This should be a product that is suitable for use on sensitive skin and is nice and hydrating. What works best for you will really depend on what skin type you have and what your skin goals are. If you’re focused primarily on anti-aging, look for gentle products that include ingredients like ceramides, stem cells and hyaluronic acid. If you have acne-prone skin, look for lighter serums that are moisturizing but noncomedogenic (won’t clog pores). Try to avoid products with heavy scents or dyes, as these ingredients can be super irritating even when your skin isn’t a little bit vulnerable. If you would like a specific recommendation for your skin type, just ask your practitioner- we all love to talk skincare.

What should I expect at my appointment? 

The session itself will start with a quick consultation where you and your provider will check in about your skin type as well as your goals for treatment. After this, your practitioner will cleanse your face of any makeup or moisturizers (all the better if you’ve done this ahead of your appointment). 

Next, we will apply a numbing cream. While the pain from microneedling isn’t extreme, some areas can definitely feel a little *spicy*. We always aim to keep you as comfortable as possible during the procedure, and the numbing cream is a huge help! Once the numbing cream has started to work (this usually takes anywhere from 10-20 minutes), your practitioner will wipe it off, clean the skin once more with a little bit of rubbing alcohol to minimize risk of infection.

And now, we begin the needling! We work the face in sections to start, applying a gentle, hydrating serum as we go. The serum allows us to gently glide the microneedle pen over the surface of the skin without creating any “drag” on the needle, which could potentially create scabbing and bruising, but is easily avoidable with good technique!

The microneedling takes anywhere from 15-30 minutes for each large section (i.e. face, neck, and chest). After finishing the microneedling, your practitioner may remove the microneedling attachment from the pen and do some “nano-needling”. Nano-needling is basically the same as microneedling, but with much shorter needles and is safe to do closer to the eyes and right on the the surface of the lips. The nano-needle is a great addition to your microneedling treatment as it can really get at those fine lines that show up right around the eye, and can have a great smoothing and plumping effect on the lips.

What kind of results should I expect? And what is the aftercare like?

Typically for best results we recommend a minimum of 3 micro-needling sessions spaced about a month apart. You can do regular facials and nano-needling in between, but the body’s typical collagen cycle (how long it takes to produce new collagen) takes about a month, so we want to give your skin a full collagen cycle in-between treatments before we start the process again.

Immediately after, expect to look and feel sunburned for a day or two (depending on the sensitivity of your skin). Use only your gentle products until the redness/sensitivity subsides and use them generously! Avoid the sun or any sunscreens for about 72 hours. If you MUST go in the sun, wear a big hat! If you can’t/won’t wear a big hat, then definitely wear sunscreen, but use a mineral barrier sunscreen instead of chemical.

Once the sensitivity from the procedure calms down, your skin is going to be more absorbent and permeable than usual, so will soak up whatever you put on it. This is prime time to use those expensive “special occasion” products and to see your favorite esthetician for a hydrating facial (shout out to EE’s very own skin magician, Ali Zagorsky). Around this time, if you’re hydrating well, expect your skin to look extra plump, “dewy” and even-toned.

Extensive bruising, bleeding or scabbing is not normal after a micro-needling treatment, and just simply shouldn’t happen with a qualified practitioner. Please give your provider a heads up if you’ve had micro-needling done before and experienced any of these complications. 

Who is not a good candidate for microneedling?

While it’s a great option for most, microneedling is not the ideal treatment for every person or skin type. You should avoid micro-needling if you’re pregnant, prone to keloid scarring, are taking blood thinners, or have rosacea. You should also avoid receiving treatment if you have any kind of active rash or skin infection such as a cold sore. Please also let your provider know if you have ever taken Accutane, as we typically recommend a waiting period of six months to a year after discontinuing use.

How is microneedling different from facial rejuvenation acupuncture?

This question has come up a lot recently with our patients. Besides a completely different methodology, facial rejuvenation treatments typically offer a more systemic and gradual effect than micro-needling. As a result, there is no downtime or sensitivity after, but it may take longer to see changes in the texture of your skin. Facial rejuvenation may also be a better option if you’re looking for more of a “lifting” effect, as we employ submuscular and other needling techniques that can help remove myofascial adhesions and restore better motor function to the muscles of the face, head and neck. 

In short, micro-needling is a better option for those looking for faster results that are more centered on the texture of the skin, and facial rejuvenation may be a better option for those looking for a more relaxing treatment that gives more of a lifting and toning effect over time.

Still can’t decide? Interested in both? Well, they do pair really well with each other and you can talk to your provider about a good cosmetic treatment plan for you and your skin’s unique needs.

With Fall just around the corner, it’s a great time to undo some of that newly acquired sun damage and take advantage of the new (and old) cosmetic treatments here at EE! We’re really excited to work with you, and as always, if you have any further questions, just get in touch.